The Roof Rack Plan

Step 1: Research

The thought of getting a custom Aluminess rack sounded awesome after seeing a few photos online but the sticker shock sent us looking for an alternative option.

We had very specific needs for our rack and didn’t need a massive platform. We have no intention of storing gear on the roof at this time or using it as a party deck. Our primary objective is to securely hold two 100 watt solar panels.

I’ve previously seen a few builds use 8020 aluminum rails for Ford Transit roof racks and cabinet framing so I began my search for components to build a rack.

Step 2: Acquiring the Parts

After creating our design and getting a parts list together we ordered all of our parts from 8020.net. You order your material to exact lengths which makes the assembly process very straight forward.

For mounting the rack to the van we opted to use mounts created by Impact Products that you can get from their eBay store.

We chose to go with two 100 watt monocrystalline solar panels from Renogy which we got from Amazon. They are solid aluminum framed panels.

Step 3: Installation

Assembling the rack is not difficult but it’s important to do everything in the correct order. In our case, we chose to have most of the harware hidden in the corner joints which meant specifically assembling it in a set order.

You will need to drill holes into the sides of the solar panels to attach them to the rack. We opted to have our panels sit inside of the rails so they were not easily seen from the side of the van or sticking up above the rack. This helps with the stealth factor but also reduces some of the extra drag the rack will have when driving.

We used the factory rack mounting holes on the Transit van. You can find these holes under rubber plugs on the roof that are painted the same color as the body. We had to remove a little bit of metal around the factory mounting holes from the body of the van. (This is very common to find on Ford Transits from the factory).

With the rack and panels assembled on the ground I needed to get it onto the roof. I foolishly also decided to do this by myself. To make this somewhat feasible I built a H frame out of three 2″x4″ boards that were then leaned against the side of the van. This allowed me to lift the rack up and set it on the horizontal brace and then climb up the ladder to push it the rest of the way up.

It’s worth noting that we also drilled a hole and installed a cable entry port for the solar panels. We’ll cover that in another article though.

Our Experience

Performance

The setup works better than we hoped. It’s been flawless for over 2 years and hasn’t leaked or rusted yet.

In Retrospect

The only thing that I would have done differently for this setup is having a second person available to get the rack and panel assembly on to the roof. Doing as a one-man job was quite sketchy.

Also you should use a cable entry port with more ports than you plan to use so you have future expansion options in case you wish to add exterior lights or antennas. I’d like to add some additional rack lights but doing so would be mean adding a new cable port now.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion: Ford Transit Roof Rack appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

The Electrical / Solar Plan

Step 1: Research

One of the most time-consuming parts of the electrical system is researching the system demands, components, and determining how to build the complete electrical system. There are a number of other great tools and resources online that are worth your time if you really wanted to know the ins and outs of how electrical systems work so I won’t attempt to replicate them here. Below are a few sources to get you started though.

Blue Sea Circuit Wizard – Has a good tool to calculate the wire size needed for the DC system.

Electrical System Design (FarOutRide) – These guys did a great job of researching and documenting electrical information. Worth a read.

Ford Transit USA Forum – Has lots of van conversions, electrical diagrams and knowledgeable people who have also been down this path already.

I should note that I wasn’t coming into this project blind as I’ve had plenty of experience doing electrical work in residential and commercial applications as well as numerous automotive projects.

Step 2: Planning & Goal Setting

It’s important to document what equipment you will have permanently and temporarily in the vehicle and how much power they will draw on a 24-hour basis. This gives you an idea of how much total power storage is needed without and power generation available (i.e. no solar, shore power, engine running, etc.) 

I would advise always going with the highest yield numbers that you calculate to add in some buffer. Once you know this then you can begin looking into battery types and sizes that fit the bill.

Step 3: Creating our Wiring/System Diagram

It’s worth the time to layout the entire wiring diagram before buying or installing any of your system. This gives you the opportunity to correctly get a parts list and double check all of your assumptions. There are plenty of tools that you can use to create a wiring diagram but what you use is not as important as the content.

After deciding what main components were needed (inverter, solar controller, solar panels, fuse panel, etc.) we could then begin laying out the system. At this stage, we began to fill in the gaps for fuses, switches, and breakers where it made the most sense to separate power and ensure safety.

There is definitely a wrong way to do electrical and the consequences are high if severely botched so be sure to do your own research and understand how fuses, breakers, and your primary system components work. It’s also very important that you calculate the correct minimum wire sizes needed for the length of the wire run and the amount of power that it needs to support. Check out the Blue Sea Circuit Wizard for assistance on this calculation.

Disclaimer: This is how we chose to build our electrical system but we are not licensed electricians and take no responsibility for others who choose to replicate anything that we have done. This is not a installation guide.

Step 4: Ordering Components

Once our research was done and our wiring plans complete we could start the expensive endeavor of ordering all of the parts we would need. Below are a lot of the primary components that we ordered.

Step 5: Installation

Details coming soon…

Our Experience

Performance

The system works better than we hoped. We’ve had the system in for a full year now and have never dropped our battery below 70%, never blew a fuse or breaker and never received any alarms from any of our equipment. It simply just works and we are super pleased about that.

We can easily go for days with no shore power or driving to charge our system as long as we get good sun coverage for the solar. Our typical travel style though usually has us driving every day or two though so the batteries get topped off constantly from the alternator.

In Retrospect

This was a daunting process of reading and reading and reading… You get the point. There are lots of options and components that you can go with so it’s easy to get sucked into the abyss of decision paralysis. Currently, the performance and simplicity of the systems operations are meeting our needs.

After a few really cold nights in the van at campgrounds where shore power was accessible we decided to add an extra 110v outlet inside the van that ran directly to the shore power inlet breaker panel. This allows us to plug in a small electric space heater and bypass the inverter and DC system to reduce strain when access to shore power is available. It was a simple addition and we will likely use it several times in the winter months when staying in campgrounds that have electric access or until we decide to install something like a webasto heater.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion Electrical System: Designing our System appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

Material, Tools, Cost & Labor

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Vinyl Flooring
• Vinyl Floor Tape
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Jigsaw
• Rubber Mallet
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
• Large ruler
• T-square
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $242.50
Installation Time: 8 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Process

Step 1: Selecting the Flooring

There are a lot of options when it comes to flooring in a camper van. Since it’s a small space, you can go with anything and it won’t cost a fortune but everything does have a price. I’ve seen wood, vinyl, linoleum, rubber, and laminate used in vans. I’ve never seen a tile floor –  probably for a good reason.

From our research, any roll of vinyl or rubber flooring works great for 100% water resistance on the floor (a must if you’re hauling wet kayaks or pee prone pups). Wood flooring looks good but is heavy, pricey, not water resistant and can easily be damaged compared to other flooring options.

For our build, we went with a 100% waterproof vinyl plank floor. Each plank clicks together with a really tight seal and has the look and texture of a laminate flooring. However, it’s slightly lighter and will hold up better to moisture and abrasion over time (we hope). We choose a darker grey color for the look and the side benefit of hiding dirt decently well. We bought ours at a local Floor & Decor store, but you can find several of options at any local flooring or big box home improvement store.

Step 2: Installing the Vinyl Flooring

We needed a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade to cut the vinyl planks, rubber mallet, tape measure and a pencil. The first row required several precision cuts to fit the planks around the van column, bed posts, and wheel well. Getting the first row correct and straight with the center line of the van is important to ensure the remaining planks go in straight and square.

You can get the center line by measuring the width of the van in the front and the rear. Then run a chalk line across the two points. Measuring from the center line to the edge of the board that runs against the wall will ensure the first row is laid straight.

Once the first row was in, we could start laying the following rows while staggering the joints as we went. To stager the joints we had to cut the planks to run up against the back of the cab area. We could use some of the off cuts for the rear threshold of the van later on.

After some incorrect attempts at connecting the planks on the first row we figured out the correct way to secure the planks together. The planks insert into one another along the long edge at an angle. The ends have a tight notch that hooks into the previous plank and requires using a rubber mallet to press them together. Once you get into a rhythm, you progress quickly.

To conceal (and yet still access) the seat brackets in the floor we cut out a section of the floor. We cut the board so the bead of the cut out can still be tucked into the floor to hold it into place. Once removed, the seats fit tightly into the brackets.

Our Experience

Installation Process

The install process really is fairly straightforward once you get going. The first row is the most important to get straight in the van. We have to pay extra attention to keeping the seams tight before locking them into place with the mallet. We quickly learned that if the boards were even slightly off it would cause problems with the next row.

The final row has a tendency to stick up from the floor some since it has no weight on the edge to hold it down. The vinyl floor tape worked to some degree, but our floor had a cork backing which didn’t play well with the tape. After installing the door trim, garage paneling, and walls this became a non-issue.

Since installed the floor before we installed cabinetry, the floor became super secure with the weight and mounting screws of the cabinets on top.

Performance

We experienced no noise, bowing, buckling or visible damage to speak of. Even with our two dogs jumping in and out of the van. the floor looks like new. I’d say it’s performed well so far.

In Retrospect

We’re still happy with the floor choice and it’s held up well throughout the rest of the build – and after multiple trips in the van with the dogs. I would have cut one of the seat bracket covers to keep it a regular rectangle if I were to do it again but other than that, we are happy with the install.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion: Vinyl Flooring Installation appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

Material, Tools, Cost & Labor

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Factory Transit Bench Seat
• 8 – 1-1/2″ x 1/2″ Grade 8 Bolts – http://amzn.to/2FPayz4
• 8 – 1/2″ Nylon Lock Nuts – http://amzn.to/2tKSf98
• 8 – 1″ Grade 8 Washers – http://amzn.to/2HpUReP
• Locktite – http://amzn.to/2GkSeLW
• Silicone – http://amzn.to/2FM0GWE
• Rustoleum Spray Paint – http://amzn.to/2tGatJ1
• Rubberized Undercoating – http://amzn.to/2FMNz7O
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Jigsaw – http://amzn.to/2HtmS52
• Socket Wrench
• Hammer
• Step Drill bits – http://amzn.to/2HsY8tJ
• Tape Measure
• Black Marker
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $XXX
Installation Time: 6.5 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Process

Step 1: Fitting the Seat

First, we placed the bench seat in the van with the seat rails attached. We took some time to move the seat around to find the most forward position, which still provided a good balance of comfortable leg room for passengers and providing the maximum amount of space behind the seat for our floor cabinets.

The seat rails needed to sit in the low area of the floor, and not on top of a rib, in order to align with the thickness of our flooring and floor insulation. With proper alignment, the brackets would be fully hidden when not in use. We also made sure to leave plenty of space on the driver side wall for paneling and a future fold-up counter top.

You’ll want to compare the in-the-van and under-the-van measurements. This will help make sure you know where the bolts will need to be placed underneath. You’ll want to prevent the bolts from aligning with a frame rail or factory rivet lines to protect structural support. After marking where all of the holes for the seat rail would go with a sharpie marker, we pulled the bench seats back out.

We drilled out each hole with a small pilot hole and followed up with a 1/2″ bit to match to our 1/2″ Grade 8 bolts that we would use to bolt the rails down. To prevent future rust, we painted all of the exposed metal using factory touch up paint.

Step 2: Building Seat Backing Plates

To provide additional strength, we built some metal backing plates out of 1/8″ thick x 2″ wide cold rolled steel. You could just use a large washer to provide support to bolt the seat rails in. However, with any significant force, or in an accident, I could easily see the bolts ripping right out of the floor.  The backing plates distribute the force across a much larger area and prevent  the bolts from tearing out.

From underneath the van, we measured the length needed for each backing plate to allow two bolts to go through each seat rail and plate. We used a hacksaw and eventually a jigsaw with the correct blade to cut the metal backing plates to length. Cutting the metal was a little tough, but doable with a hacksaw. However, the blades wore down after cutting 4 brackets. Drilling the holes became a whole other challenge, probably due to having cheaper bits and only a 20v cordless drill. I drilled small pilot holes and used a couple different step drill bits to make the large holes necessary for the 1/2″ hardware. It took a lot of patience to get all 8 holes drilled.

The brackets were coated in 3 coats of Rustoleum black paint. At this stage, we were ready to install the backing plates and seat rails.

Step 3: Installing the Seat Rails

We bolted the seat rails in using the following order on the mounting bolts: Bolt, washer, seat rail, floor, silicone, bracket, washer, and nylon lock nut. All hardware used was Grade 8 for strength. A generous amount of silicone was used between the seat bracket and the underside of the van floor to keep out moisture. We also used locktite on the threads of the bolt to help prevent the nut from backing off in the future.

After a couple of days, we applied a few coats of rustoleum to the brackets and hardware, followed up with a coat of rubberized undercoating. The undercoating was also applied to most of the large exposed metal panels under the van to help with sound dampening.

Step 4: Final Seat Install

With the rails installed, we moved onto the more tedious task of fitting the insulation and subfloor. We placed the polyiso insulation over the rails and pressed down to make an impression of the rails onto the foam. Then we cut out the outline of the seat rails using a extendable box cutter. Cutting small amounts until the fit was tight.

The plywood subfloor would cover the majority of the seat rails and only have cutouts for the actual connection points. Using the cutout foam as a template I marked the locations of the cross bar mounting locations for the seat. We measured the the seat legs to determine the correct size of the openings needed and cut the appropriate holes.

We used spray foam insulation to fill the seat rails where the seat mounts don’t connect. This would be under the subfloor and never seen but would help provide a small amount of insulation back to the floor. After installing the subfloor, the seat cross bars would sit just below the subfloor height. The vinyl plank flooring would easily cover the seat brackets once installed later.

Our Experience

Installation Process

The installation process was a straight forward project but requires a lot of patience and time. The entire process took much longer then I anticipated, mostly due to the difficulty drilling holes in the fabricated seat brackets and the constant double checking fitment of the seats, floor, insulation, etc. We didn’t need any highly specialized tools but having a drill press would have been really helpful.

Performance

The overall fitment of the seat is extremely sturdy and snug against the flooring. The seat clicks in very securely and we’re confident in the strength of how the seat rails are bolted through the van floor. I believe this to be as secure as the factory installation and don’t have an concerns with additional passengers or small children riding with us (bench seat has the proper car seat/baby carrier mounts already built in).

In Retrospect

The one big thing we would have possibly done differently is to look for a different seat that weighed much less and could have been installed in smaller sections. Moving the factory bench seat requires two fairly strong people to not drag it all over the place and risk damaging the flooring in the van.

Photo Gallery

Click to view slideshow.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion: Installing 2nd Row Bench Seat in Ford Transit appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

Material, Tools, Cost & Labor

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• 9 – 2″ x 4″ Boards
• 2 – 3/4” x 4’ x 8’ Maple Hardwood Plywood
• 2 1/2″ Wood Screws – http://amzn.to/2E6Hseo
• 2.5″ Hex Bolts (1/4-20 Thread) – http://amzn.to/2sbfNn3
• 1/4-20 Stainless Steel Fender Washers – http://amzn.to/2GW6gmW
• 1/4-20 Rivnuts – http://amzn.to/2nPq17d
• Kreg Pocket Hole Screws – http://amzn.to/2C1Lb6V
• Memory Foam Mattress – http://amzn.to/2AbNOG8
• Scrap cardboard (for template making)
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Jig Saw – http://amzn.to/2G5xebK
• Circular Saw (Optional) – http://amzn.to/2D9LFsf
• Kreg Pocket Screw Jig – http://amzn.to/2GSiIEi
• Rivnut Gun – http://amzn.to/2nPDxrw
• Carpenters Square – http://amzn.to/2G3h2I1
• Clamps – http://amzn.to/2FpejYD
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $XX
Installation Time: 7 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Process

Step 1: Framing the Bed Platform

To frame the bed platform we mounted our mountain bikes to our sub-floor and measured the minimum height needed for adequate clearance. We then added 2″ to account for the future bike drawer thickness and final vinyl flooring thickness. This ended up at 38″ from floor to the bottom of the bed platform.

This gave us the height of the vertical 2″x4″ columns for the platform. We cut the front and rear supports at the measured height with a notch for the horizontal 2″x4″ supports. This allowed for screws to be driven from the side as well as a pocket screw from below.

Once the front and rear columns were installed I used a 4 foot t-square to run a straight line across the two columns. Then we measured the height from the wheel well to the level line to create the to center columns. We installed rivnuts in the factory holes on the inner van walls. We could then bolt the 2×4 columns to the van walls but ensured the weight was resting on the sub-floor. Each column has between 2-4 bolts holding it to the wall.

We moved on to the horizontal supports next. These are simple 2″x4″ boards ran from side to side in the van. Measure the width, cut and install. Repeat. Knowing that we would use 2 sheets of plywood on the platform, with the seam running down the middle, we cut and installed braces between the horizontal supports. This would give proper support for the seam of the plywood platform.

Step 2: Installing the Platform

We are using a full size mattress sideways in the van. To hold it we used two sheets of 3/4” x 4’ x 8’ maple hardwood plywood as the platform. We used a piece of cardboard to trace out a template of the bed platform. Specifically around the rear corners and back doors.

We wanted a close fit to the rear door to create a shelf on the backside of the bed for a place to stash phones, books, etc while in bed. After spending a fair amount of time creating a good fitting template, we traced it on to the plywood to be cut out by a jigsaw. We could flip the cut board to create the opposite side with the exception of how the board fit around the center door frames since they are slightly different on each rear door.

Ultimately the boards fit well using this approach. We secured them to the platform with 1-1/2″ exterior screws placed every 8″ along the horizontal supports. To help with ventilating the memory foam mattress we drilled a 1″ hole in the platform approximately every 12 inches.

Step 3: Mattress Trim / Barriers

Coming soon…

Our Experience

Installation Process

Coming soon…

Performance

The bed is comfortable and allows us to sit up (we’re 5’6″ and shorter) which is nice. It’s an incredibly sturdy build with no noticeable wobble, sway or flex. Driving down the road there isn’t any squeaking or noise to speak of either which was a major goal of the build from the beginning.

In Retrospect

After using the bed on a couple of overnight trips we can say that the mattress was a very good choice and super comfy. Also the height of the bed has been fine as well. I think we would make the area for the mattress an inch wider. I originally measured the width of the width bed without the idea of a board in the rear to prevent movement and the memory foam mattress expanded just a tad more than the listed specs. However, the mattress fits tight and stays in place so I can’t complain. Also the front board, a 1″ x 6″ pine board, is too short to provide confident holding area for the front mattress edge. With 4 inches attached to the frame and only 2 inches sticking up in front of the mattress it doesn’t seem secure enough. Swapping to a 1′ x 8″ board will provide 4″ of lip for the mattress.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion: Bed Platform appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Pioneer 4200NEX Head Unit – http://amzn.to/2C2nmQt
• Metra Installation Kit – http://amzn.to/2zmyCC7
• ADS-MRR Maestro RR – http://amzn.to/2znJZcV
• HRN-RR-FO2 Maestro Plug and Play ADS-MRR T-Harness – http://amzn.to/2zmoEAu
• USB + Aux 3.5mm Mount Cable – http://amzn.to/2D5pgNg
• USB 3.0 + HDMI Mount Cable – http://amzn.to/2zlJZtU
• Ford OEM Airbag Light, Part# BK2Z-10A936-B- Part Online
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Trim Removal Tools – http://amzn.to/2D4rDzP
• Wire Stripper/Crimper/Cutter – http://amzn.to/2C1LhzE
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $650.51
Installation Time: 5 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Video

**Coming Soon!

Process

Step 1: Program Maestro RR

If you’re going to use a Maestro RR in your installation you will want to program it in advance. We’ve outlined the basic steps and our experience with it on a previous post that you can read here. We won’t go into the details here but be sure to do this a head of time so you don’t hold up the installation in the vehicle.

Step 2: Factory Stereo Removal

This will vary based on which factory stereo came standard in your van. Ours has the basic Sync system with the small display on the top of the dash (build code XX). First we had to pry the top tray loose and hold it out of the way. Then we could remove the radio face panel. This required removing two screws along the top edge of the radio bezel and working the trim removal tool around the outer edges. It will require some force to remove the faceplate but be careful to not damage your dash or vents. You will reuse these vents in the new faceplate of the Metra installation kit.

Once you have removed the faceplate, you can remove 2 screws that are holding the top tray and display screen in place. Then the top tray is only held in with trim clips. On stereos without the small display you can remove the top tray completely in the first step. Removing this tray in either configuration is much easier if you use some trim removal tools.

Step 3: Wiring & Connections

This is the bulk of the installation and easily the most daunting element of the project. I’ve installed many aftermarket stereos in the past, but this one presented several challenges due to the lack of complete wiring diagrams from the manufacturers of the products used. Below are the factory wiring diagrams with additional notes that I had to research or get from calling the support lines of the manufacturers.

Maestro RR Wiring Instructions – Download PDF here.

OBDII Connections from Maestro RR – These connections are made under the dash at the OBDII port. Instructions are not provided by iDatalink with the Maestro RR unit. After a call to support, I found that the Maestro Red wire goes to Factory White/Blue Stripe, Maestro Yellow wire goes to Factory White.

OEM Screen Connecter to Maestro RR –Download diagram here. You’ll need to plug in two small pins from the Maestro harness to the factory stereo harness for the backup camera to work.

Pioneer 4200NEX Wiring Instructions – Download diagram PDF here & Full Owner Manual Here

USB Port Installation

We replaced one of the factory 12v Power Ports in the dash with a USB port that plugs into the Pioneer 4200 NEX. We  also mounted a second USB / HDMI port  under the center console. This port also plugged into the rear of the Pioneer 4200 NEX. Using the trim tools, you can easily remove the center console panel with the 12v plug. Removing the factory plug requires breaking off two small plastic tabs that hold the port in. The replacement ports fit perfectly into the factory hole and  a large plastic nut on the backside of the new port will hold them in place.

The USB / HDMI port that is mounted under the center console requires a new hole to be drilled that matches the diameter of the port. With the center console’s cup holder / change tray removed, you can easily access the backside of this port to screw on the plastic nut to hold it in place. The cables from these ports will have to be fed up either side of the center console to a small opening underneath where the factory radio existed.

Tip: To ensure the new ports do not loosen up or rotate after they have been installed you can run a bead of hot glue around the back side to lock in their position. 

Step 4: Prep for Final Install

After you have everything wired up, you’ll want to put your key in and power up the head unit. Test all the functions, speakers, steering wheel controls, etc. Once you confirm that everything is working and no missing or loose connections exist, then you can begin the preparations for the final install.

The Metra kit includes 2 side brackets that will need to be screwed to the side of your head unit. The brackets have two lower points that insert into existing holes in the dash. These will float the head unit in place. Two screw holes on the top corners of the bracket will sit flush against a piece of the factory plastic. You will need to drill a small pilot hole at these two locations so you can insert two screws to hold the bracket in place. Two additional screws will align with factory screw holes in the rear of the stereo from the Metra bracket. These 4 screws will hold the head unit in place.

At this stage, you’ll need to begin getting the maestro unit, cables, and connectors positioned correctly so you can put the dash back together. This can become difficult due to the number of wires, connectors, etc. present behind the stereo. You’ll want to start tucking the maestro unit and as many cables as you can under the new head unit or to the sides. You can’t leave them all in the rear as the new top tray will eventually fill this space.

The Metra install kit comes with a top tray and a front plate. The top tray comes without the trim clips installed. The clips should be in a  small bag of parts in the kit. Retrieve the clips and attach them to the tray by following the instructions or by comparing them to the factory tray you removed. The vents will need to be removed from the factory stereo faceplate and relocated to the new faceplate. This involves a few small screws and clips that run on both sides of each vent. You can use a small flat head screw driver or trim tool to loosen these clips. You’ll also need to relocate the hazard light button to the new faceplate and use the provided trim plugs to fill in the other faceplate openings.

Ford Transit Passenger Seat Airbag Indicator

One of the openings in the faceplate is for the passenger seat airbag indicator. Depending on your factory stereo configuration or model year, this may not be used. On our 2018, the passenger airbag light was part of the factory stereo control cluster we removed. The result is that the cable is left disconnected in the dash. This triggers the warning light on the dash lights – which is really annoying. We ordered a Ford OEM part# BK2Z-10A936-B. This part was designed to fit in the faceplate location and has the harness connection that matches the factory stereo. Once the indicator is connected the dash light went off. I choose to leave the plastic plug in the faceplate and leave the indicator light in the dash where we can’t see it. It constantly glows orange when the airbag is turned on or off, which is annoying to look at on the dash.

Step 5: Final Install

Congrats! This is the easiest step. Before beginning, you should turn the stereo on. Test all the functions one last time to make sure no connections have came loose. If everything is working, you are truly ready to close up the dash. Start by simply pushing the faceplate in place. Make sure the vent tubes align properly with the ports coming out of the dash. Also check the fit of the head unit screen with the opening in the trim. If the screen doesn’t stick out enough or creates large gaps then you’ll need to adjust how the stereo brackets attach to the stereo sides. Once you have firmly seated the faceplate in the dash, you can move on to the top tray.

You’ll want to ensure you have moved all wires to a position that prevents pinching by the top tray’s final position. The top tray should just click down onto the dash with tabs that fit into the top of the front faceplate. It may require some force to seat the tray into position. You may have some lower dash panels to reinstall or center console trim pieces as well depending on if you added additional USB, auxiliary, or HDMI ports. You can now reinstall them in reverse of how you removed them.

Our Experience

Installation Process

What a annoying mess! I had several rounds of no or conflicting information provided by the manufacturer of the the Maestro RR. The support line staff were polite and were helpful at times but didn’t solve 100% of my issues. The first issue is that iDatalinkt did not provide a compressive enough wiring diagram for the Maestro RR. It does not clearly specify the wiring of the OBDII connection or the two loose wires coming from the upper OEM dash screen connection. I solved both quickly by calling the support line at iDatalink, but why not include this in the provided wiring instructions?

My second issue occurred when the steering wheel controls stopped working altogether. All steps suggested by iDatalink did not solve my problem. They basically said it was the Pioneer unit and that I could call Pioneer but they would blame the Maestro RR as standard protocol. They recommended I send my head unit back and get a replacement one. Really? I refused to throw in the towel and contemplated a few of my own ideas. What worked was retrieving the actual Device Number from inside the Pioneer settings menu and reprograming the Maestro RR with this number. The original instructions for the Maestro was to use the serial number of the unit. After reprogramming the unit we had an operating steering wheel control pad again.

Some of the steps of the process, like cutting the dash, jamming all that wiring into the dash, and running the extra cable to the ports I installed, were fairly straightforward. I burned up about 2 hours sitting on hold with support, troubleshooting my Maestro issues, and reprogramming my Maestro.

Performance

The Pioneer unit, in combination with the Maestro RR, has performed well so far. Almost every function works as expected. The flexibility of the system, addition of vehicle gauges, and the ability to use CarPlay are huge improvements over the factory head unit. I said “almost every function” because I’m still having issues with getting Siri to work properly through the head unit and getting the bluetooth microphone to work properly. My assumption is the factory microphone would be used with the addition of the Maestro RR and initially seemed to the the case. However, in the days following the installation it seems to not be working consistently. It could be a settings issue and I will contact Pioneer support to try to identify the issue.

Update: Originally did not install the pioneer microphone. After installing it and changing the maestro settings it appears to be working correctly now.

Another outstanding issue is the passenger seat airbag light is currently on in the dash. This is a result of the fact that Ford wired the original passenger seat airbag light into the factory stereo unit itself. The connection is currently not hooked up to anything. I’ve found an OEM part to install into the Metra dash kit that will add the passenger airbag light back into the dash. Once I acquire this part and install it, I’ll report back on the outcome.

Update: Ford airbag indicator light solved this problem. Updated install section above to reflect this.

In Retrospect

I would buy the Pioneer 4200NEX again. I’m not 100% sure I’d do a Ford Transit stereo installation myself again if I could find a super good deal on a professional installation. I’ve installed many head units over the years and this might have been the most complicated and frustrating one yet. In the end it was worth it, but took way longer then it really should have.

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