The Roof Rack Plan

Step 1: Research

The thought of getting a custom Aluminess rack sounded awesome after seeing a few photos online but the sticker shock sent us looking for an alternative option.

We had very specific needs for our rack and didn’t need a massive platform. We have no intention of storing gear on the roof at this time or using it as a party deck. Our primary objective is to securely hold two 100 watt solar panels.

I’ve previously seen a few builds use 8020 aluminum rails for Ford Transit roof racks and cabinet framing so I began my search for components to build a rack.

Step 2: Acquiring the Parts

After creating our design and getting a parts list together we ordered all of our parts from 8020.net. You order your material to exact lengths which makes the assembly process very straight forward.

For mounting the rack to the van we opted to use mounts created by Impact Products that you can get from their eBay store.

We chose to go with two 100 watt monocrystalline solar panels from Renogy which we got from Amazon. They are solid aluminum framed panels.

Step 3: Installation

Assembling the rack is not difficult but it’s important to do everything in the correct order. In our case, we chose to have most of the harware hidden in the corner joints which meant specifically assembling it in a set order.

You will need to drill holes into the sides of the solar panels to attach them to the rack. We opted to have our panels sit inside of the rails so they were not easily seen from the side of the van or sticking up above the rack. This helps with the stealth factor but also reduces some of the extra drag the rack will have when driving.

We used the factory rack mounting holes on the Transit van. You can find these holes under rubber plugs on the roof that are painted the same color as the body. We had to remove a little bit of metal around the factory mounting holes from the body of the van. (This is very common to find on Ford Transits from the factory).

With the rack and panels assembled on the ground I needed to get it onto the roof. I foolishly also decided to do this by myself. To make this somewhat feasible I built a H frame out of three 2″x4″ boards that were then leaned against the side of the van. This allowed me to lift the rack up and set it on the horizontal brace and then climb up the ladder to push it the rest of the way up.

It’s worth noting that we also drilled a hole and installed a cable entry port for the solar panels. We’ll cover that in another article though.

Our Experience

Performance

The setup works better than we hoped. It’s been flawless for over 2 years and hasn’t leaked or rusted yet.

In Retrospect

The only thing that I would have done differently for this setup is having a second person available to get the rack and panel assembly on to the roof. Doing as a one-man job was quite sketchy.

Also you should use a cable entry port with more ports than you plan to use so you have future expansion options in case you wish to add exterior lights or antennas. I’d like to add some additional rack lights but doing so would be mean adding a new cable port now.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion: Ford Transit Roof Rack appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

The Electrical / Solar Plan

Step 1: Research

One of the most time-consuming parts of the electrical system is researching the system demands, components, and determining how to build the complete electrical system. There are a number of other great tools and resources online that are worth your time if you really wanted to know the ins and outs of how electrical systems work so I won’t attempt to replicate them here. Below are a few sources to get you started though.

Blue Sea Circuit Wizard – Has a good tool to calculate the wire size needed for the DC system.

Electrical System Design (FarOutRide) – These guys did a great job of researching and documenting electrical information. Worth a read.

Ford Transit USA Forum – Has lots of van conversions, electrical diagrams and knowledgeable people who have also been down this path already.

I should note that I wasn’t coming into this project blind as I’ve had plenty of experience doing electrical work in residential and commercial applications as well as numerous automotive projects.

Step 2: Planning & Goal Setting

It’s important to document what equipment you will have permanently and temporarily in the vehicle and how much power they will draw on a 24-hour basis. This gives you an idea of how much total power storage is needed without and power generation available (i.e. no solar, shore power, engine running, etc.) 

I would advise always going with the highest yield numbers that you calculate to add in some buffer. Once you know this then you can begin looking into battery types and sizes that fit the bill.

Step 3: Creating our Wiring/System Diagram

It’s worth the time to layout the entire wiring diagram before buying or installing any of your system. This gives you the opportunity to correctly get a parts list and double check all of your assumptions. There are plenty of tools that you can use to create a wiring diagram but what you use is not as important as the content.

After deciding what main components were needed (inverter, solar controller, solar panels, fuse panel, etc.) we could then begin laying out the system. At this stage, we began to fill in the gaps for fuses, switches, and breakers where it made the most sense to separate power and ensure safety.

There is definitely a wrong way to do electrical and the consequences are high if severely botched so be sure to do your own research and understand how fuses, breakers, and your primary system components work. It’s also very important that you calculate the correct minimum wire sizes needed for the length of the wire run and the amount of power that it needs to support. Check out the Blue Sea Circuit Wizard for assistance on this calculation.

Disclaimer: This is how we chose to build our electrical system but we are not licensed electricians and take no responsibility for others who choose to replicate anything that we have done. This is not a installation guide.

Step 4: Ordering Components

Once our research was done and our wiring plans complete we could start the expensive endeavor of ordering all of the parts we would need. Below are a lot of the primary components that we ordered.

Step 5: Installation

Details coming soon…

Our Experience

Performance

The system works better than we hoped. We’ve had the system in for a full year now and have never dropped our battery below 70%, never blew a fuse or breaker and never received any alarms from any of our equipment. It simply just works and we are super pleased about that.

We can easily go for days with no shore power or driving to charge our system as long as we get good sun coverage for the solar. Our typical travel style though usually has us driving every day or two though so the batteries get topped off constantly from the alternator.

In Retrospect

This was a daunting process of reading and reading and reading… You get the point. There are lots of options and components that you can go with so it’s easy to get sucked into the abyss of decision paralysis. Currently, the performance and simplicity of the systems operations are meeting our needs.

After a few really cold nights in the van at campgrounds where shore power was accessible we decided to add an extra 110v outlet inside the van that ran directly to the shore power inlet breaker panel. This allows us to plug in a small electric space heater and bypass the inverter and DC system to reduce strain when access to shore power is available. It was a simple addition and we will likely use it several times in the winter months when staying in campgrounds that have electric access or until we decide to install something like a webasto heater.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion Electrical System: Designing our System appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

First Year of Ownership

Our first year of ownership has been quite uneventful in terms of any van issues. We’ve logged almost 16,000 miles on our 2018 Ford Transit 250. Our only maintenance has consisted of a couple of oil changes, at $40 a pop at our local Ford dealership, and patching a tire that picked up a nail.

Exterior

We personally like the exterior styling of the Ford Transit and the Ingot Silver paint color gives it a little bit of uniqueness without showing much dirt. Most vans are white due to their commercial applications. However, many of the colors available are darker and tend to increase the cabin temperatures in direct sunlight. We’ve only hit the car wash once so far this year for a little spring cleaning and a coat of wax.

There’s not a whole lot to speak of in terms of exterior features. From the factory we did opt for heated power folding mirrors and have found them to be a great addition. We’ve been in a few tight spots where quickly folding the mirrors in have helped to squeeze through without any unnecessary scratches. The added benefit of removing the thick layer of ice that coated our van one morning was made all the more easier.

One annoying item that I’ve not found a solution for yet is that the sliding side door has no drip rail. Expect to have a noticeable amount of rain water dripping in on the floor or the inside of the sliding door if you open it during or after a rain storm. Another item worth noting that we, and other owners, have encountered is when driving at highway speeds in a sturdy cross wind, the cab doors can open slightly causing for an annoying wind noise. This has occurred once for us when crossing Kansas with 25+mph cross winds.

It’s worth noting that a Ford Transit 250 High Roof (non-extended) can fit in a standard parking space. 

Interior

The interior of the Ford Transit is very utilitarian since it’s primarily a commercial vehicle. A lot of plastic is used in the door panels and dash components. However, with the Premium Interior Package you’re provided with a really nice leather wrapped steering wheel with stereo, cruise and in dash system controls. We opted for 10-way power and heated leather seats. With two pups riding on board for almost all of our excursions, we’ve learned that the fur quickly becomes messy on cloth seats and that moisture or stains can occur quickly from sweaty bike riders. The leather seats are easily cleaned with some leather wipes.

The 10-way power seats add a lot to the comfort of the seats for long drives, and surpass the base manual seats from our test driving experience. Also, if you add a seat swivel you can lower the seat quite a bit with the power controls to make up for the added height of the swivel adapter.

Over head storage is limited with the factory storage tray but with some added bungee cords it can be very useful and prevent stuffed jackets from falling on your head while driving.

Performance

We opted for the 3.5L V6 EcoBoost drivetrain. If I had to sum up our experience in one word and quote Jeremy Clarkson: “POWERRRR!” The base 3.7L V6 is an okay drivetrain and can get the job done, but it pales in comparison to the EcoBoost. We climbed Pikes Peak in Colorado with little effort and the 14,000+ feet of elevation wasn’t that noticeable in terms of power output.

You can see our full build sheet here for more specs on the drivetrain options we selected. We wouldn’t have changed a thing in this area if we had to do it again.

A fairly well recorded issue is the rear brakes have a bad habit of eating pads for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with many reporting needing to replace pads at 15,000 miles or so. If you wait until you hear the squealing of the rotors being consumed for dessert, then you’ll be stuck with the task of pulling the rear axles in order to remove the rear brake rotors.

From what I’ve found while researching the topic, the rear brakes take a fair bit of the load in braking to assist in the weight distribution and stability of the van. Our van will be getting new pads around 17,000 miles. While I’m not happy with this shorter than average lifespan it’s not that difficult to change pads yourself at quite a low cost. However, going to a dealership can get quite expensive especially if new rotors are involved.

Fuel Economy

Our van, with the 3.5L EcoBoost with 3.31 limited slip differential, averaged between 14.5-15.5 mpg on combined city and highway driving over the first 15,000 miles. We ran basic unleaded gasoline (87 octane) and 66-68 psi in all 4 tires. We’ve easily added over 1,000 lbs in our conversion process plus gear.

Conclusions

We researched several options before buying our van and thus far feel very happy about our decision to go with the Ford Transit. We’ve had no mechanical issues, enjoy the performance and drivability of the vehicle. We purchased the Transit van for the purpose of building our own DIY camper van conversion. With our build near complete and many trips under our belts we can confidently say that we love our van.

Afterword

Update March 7, 2019: Ford just announced the 2020 Ford Transit with a number of new technology improvements, safety features, powertrain changes and most notably an AWD system. There are a number of new features that I wish were options at the time we bought our 2018. I do not have any buyers remorse though. We’ve thoroughly enjoyed our Transit so far and it got us our exploring and enjoying adventures immediately. Be sure to check out the Ford website for the latest on the new 2020 Ford Transit if you’re currently in the market to buy. Also, be sure to visit the Ford Transit USA Forums if you live in America for tons of great owner info, conversion advise and even more reviews on Ford Transits from all years.

The post 2018 Ford Transit Van Review appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

Material, Tools, Cost & Labor

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Vinyl Flooring
• Vinyl Floor Tape
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Jigsaw
• Rubber Mallet
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
• Large ruler
• T-square
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $242.50
Installation Time: 8 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Process

Step 1: Selecting the Flooring

There are a lot of options when it comes to flooring in a camper van. Since it’s a small space, you can go with anything and it won’t cost a fortune but everything does have a price. I’ve seen wood, vinyl, linoleum, rubber, and laminate used in vans. I’ve never seen a tile floor –  probably for a good reason.

From our research, any roll of vinyl or rubber flooring works great for 100% water resistance on the floor (a must if you’re hauling wet kayaks or pee prone pups). Wood flooring looks good but is heavy, pricey, not water resistant and can easily be damaged compared to other flooring options.

For our build, we went with a 100% waterproof vinyl plank floor. Each plank clicks together with a really tight seal and has the look and texture of a laminate flooring. However, it’s slightly lighter and will hold up better to moisture and abrasion over time (we hope). We choose a darker grey color for the look and the side benefit of hiding dirt decently well. We bought ours at a local Floor & Decor store, but you can find several of options at any local flooring or big box home improvement store.

Step 2: Installing the Vinyl Flooring

We needed a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade to cut the vinyl planks, rubber mallet, tape measure and a pencil. The first row required several precision cuts to fit the planks around the van column, bed posts, and wheel well. Getting the first row correct and straight with the center line of the van is important to ensure the remaining planks go in straight and square.

You can get the center line by measuring the width of the van in the front and the rear. Then run a chalk line across the two points. Measuring from the center line to the edge of the board that runs against the wall will ensure the first row is laid straight.

Once the first row was in, we could start laying the following rows while staggering the joints as we went. To stager the joints we had to cut the planks to run up against the back of the cab area. We could use some of the off cuts for the rear threshold of the van later on.

After some incorrect attempts at connecting the planks on the first row we figured out the correct way to secure the planks together. The planks insert into one another along the long edge at an angle. The ends have a tight notch that hooks into the previous plank and requires using a rubber mallet to press them together. Once you get into a rhythm, you progress quickly.

To conceal (and yet still access) the seat brackets in the floor we cut out a section of the floor. We cut the board so the bead of the cut out can still be tucked into the floor to hold it into place. Once removed, the seats fit tightly into the brackets.

Our Experience

Installation Process

The install process really is fairly straightforward once you get going. The first row is the most important to get straight in the van. We have to pay extra attention to keeping the seams tight before locking them into place with the mallet. We quickly learned that if the boards were even slightly off it would cause problems with the next row.

The final row has a tendency to stick up from the floor some since it has no weight on the edge to hold it down. The vinyl floor tape worked to some degree, but our floor had a cork backing which didn’t play well with the tape. After installing the door trim, garage paneling, and walls this became a non-issue.

Since installed the floor before we installed cabinetry, the floor became super secure with the weight and mounting screws of the cabinets on top.

Performance

We experienced no noise, bowing, buckling or visible damage to speak of. Even with our two dogs jumping in and out of the van. the floor looks like new. I’d say it’s performed well so far.

In Retrospect

We’re still happy with the floor choice and it’s held up well throughout the rest of the build – and after multiple trips in the van with the dogs. I would have cut one of the seat bracket covers to keep it a regular rectangle if I were to do it again but other than that, we are happy with the install.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion: Vinyl Flooring Installation appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

Material, Tools, Cost & Labor

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• 9 – 2″ x 4″ Boards
• 2 – 3/4” x 4’ x 8’ Maple Hardwood Plywood
• 2 1/2″ Wood Screws – http://amzn.to/2E6Hseo
• 2.5″ Hex Bolts (1/4-20 Thread) – http://amzn.to/2sbfNn3
• 1/4-20 Stainless Steel Fender Washers – http://amzn.to/2GW6gmW
• 1/4-20 Rivnuts – http://amzn.to/2nPq17d
• Kreg Pocket Hole Screws – http://amzn.to/2C1Lb6V
• Memory Foam Mattress – http://amzn.to/2AbNOG8
• Scrap cardboard (for template making)
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Jig Saw – http://amzn.to/2G5xebK
• Circular Saw (Optional) – http://amzn.to/2D9LFsf
• Kreg Pocket Screw Jig – http://amzn.to/2GSiIEi
• Rivnut Gun – http://amzn.to/2nPDxrw
• Carpenters Square – http://amzn.to/2G3h2I1
• Clamps – http://amzn.to/2FpejYD
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $XX
Installation Time: 7 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Process

Step 1: Framing the Bed Platform

To frame the bed platform we mounted our mountain bikes to our sub-floor and measured the minimum height needed for adequate clearance. We then added 2″ to account for the future bike drawer thickness and final vinyl flooring thickness. This ended up at 38″ from floor to the bottom of the bed platform.

This gave us the height of the vertical 2″x4″ columns for the platform. We cut the front and rear supports at the measured height with a notch for the horizontal 2″x4″ supports. This allowed for screws to be driven from the side as well as a pocket screw from below.

Once the front and rear columns were installed I used a 4 foot t-square to run a straight line across the two columns. Then we measured the height from the wheel well to the level line to create the to center columns. We installed rivnuts in the factory holes on the inner van walls. We could then bolt the 2×4 columns to the van walls but ensured the weight was resting on the sub-floor. Each column has between 2-4 bolts holding it to the wall.

We moved on to the horizontal supports next. These are simple 2″x4″ boards ran from side to side in the van. Measure the width, cut and install. Repeat. Knowing that we would use 2 sheets of plywood on the platform, with the seam running down the middle, we cut and installed braces between the horizontal supports. This would give proper support for the seam of the plywood platform.

Step 2: Installing the Platform

We are using a full size mattress sideways in the van. To hold it we used two sheets of 3/4” x 4’ x 8’ maple hardwood plywood as the platform. We used a piece of cardboard to trace out a template of the bed platform. Specifically around the rear corners and back doors.

We wanted a close fit to the rear door to create a shelf on the backside of the bed for a place to stash phones, books, etc while in bed. After spending a fair amount of time creating a good fitting template, we traced it on to the plywood to be cut out by a jigsaw. We could flip the cut board to create the opposite side with the exception of how the board fit around the center door frames since they are slightly different on each rear door.

Ultimately the boards fit well using this approach. We secured them to the platform with 1-1/2″ exterior screws placed every 8″ along the horizontal supports. To help with ventilating the memory foam mattress we drilled a 1″ hole in the platform approximately every 12 inches.

Step 3: Mattress Trim / Barriers

Coming soon…

Our Experience

Installation Process

Coming soon…

Performance

The bed is comfortable and allows us to sit up (we’re 5’6″ and shorter) which is nice. It’s an incredibly sturdy build with no noticeable wobble, sway or flex. Driving down the road there isn’t any squeaking or noise to speak of either which was a major goal of the build from the beginning.

In Retrospect

After using the bed on a couple of overnight trips we can say that the mattress was a very good choice and super comfy. Also the height of the bed has been fine as well. I think we would make the area for the mattress an inch wider. I originally measured the width of the width bed without the idea of a board in the rear to prevent movement and the memory foam mattress expanded just a tad more than the listed specs. However, the mattress fits tight and stays in place so I can’t complain. Also the front board, a 1″ x 6″ pine board, is too short to provide confident holding area for the front mattress edge. With 4 inches attached to the frame and only 2 inches sticking up in front of the mattress it doesn’t seem secure enough. Swapping to a 1′ x 8″ board will provide 4″ of lip for the mattress.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion: Bed Platform appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

Material, Tools, Cost & Labor

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• 3 sheets – 1/2″x4’x8′ Exterior Grade Plywood
• 2 sheets – 1/2″x4’x8′ Polyiso
• 3 sheets – 1″x4’x8′ Polyiso
• 8 – 1/4-20 x 9/16″ Teenuts
• 8 – Grade 8 1/4-20 1-1/2″ Hex Bolts
• 8 – 1/4-20 1″ Stainless Steel Fender Washers
• Locktite
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Jigsaw
• Circular Saw
• Socket Wrench
• Hammer
• Drill bits
• Tape Measure
• Black Marker
• Large ruler
• T-square
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $TBD
Installation Time: 8 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Process

Step 1: First Layer of Insulation

We have a high roof Ford Transit so we have more than enough vertical space to install an insulated floor. We started our floor insulation with a layer of 1/2″ polyiso in between the floor ribs. Polyiso has an R value of 6 for every inch and can stand up to the pressure applied from walking on it, especially when dispersed across a larger area. Installing the polyiso is an easy process as you only need a large blade, tape measure, ruler and writing utensil.

The factory floor ribs are just shorter than a 1/2″ so the polyiso fits nicely between the ribs. Once the additional layers are installed and the floor bolted down it will compress the 1/2″ polyiso slightly before the top layer rests on the ribs. This will hold the polysio in place. We eventually chose not to use an adhesive to hold the insulation in place as the clamping strength of the sub-floor seemed to be enough. If we ever wanted to or had to remove the floor we wouldn’t be stuck with dealing with the adhesives. Time will tell if this will cause issues down the road.

Working from one side of the van, we began measuring the areas between the ribs and translating the dimensions to the polysio. Using a large extendable box cutter made short work of the polysio. Most the pieces are long straight cuts and can quickly be completed. Sections near the wall will require a little more time to stencil and cut around columns, wheel wells and smaller sections of independent ribs.

On our 148″ long-wheelbase Ford Transit we needed two 4’x8′ sheets of polyiso to completely cover the floor.

Step 2: Second Layer of Insulation

On top of the 1/2″ polyiso is a layer of 1″ polyiso. We used 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets to cover the entire floor of the cargo area. We used the factory rubber floor mat as the basis for the template for cutting the foam. The factory rubber floor mat does have some cutouts that you should not use as is. Before tracing the floor mat exactly you should look at how the mat fits in the van and around all of the walls. Make notes of where the floor mat does not cover the floor fully so you can make the necessary corrections when tracing it to the foam.

After tracing the floor outline to the 3 sheets of polyiso, we cut the pieces out with a large extending box cutter. I cut the foam out with an extra half-inch beyond the outline of the factory floor mat to allow for a tighter fit and additional adjustments once installed in the van. Each sheet was installed and then additional pieces were cut or shaved off until the ideal fit was found.

Step 3: Installing Wood Sub-floor

Since each piece of the 1″ polyiso was cut and proved to fit well we removed it and used it as a template for the sub-floor plywood. We repeated the basic process from the polyiso. Trace, cut, install. We made note of the overlap between the played and the polyiso so the seams would be staggered to help prevent the floor seams becoming uneven in the final floor.

Once traced we used a circular saw and jigsaw to cut out the plywood. Each sheet was fitted and a few additional cuts were made to make a close but not tight fit against the edges of the van. If it’s to tight then you run the risk of causing squeaks when driving down the road or walking on the floor.

In an attempt to prevent future moisture issues from becoming problems we gave the sub-floor plywood a solid coating of shellac on both sides.

We secured the floor using counter sunk teenuts and Grade 8 bolts inserted from below van into the floor. We drilled holes through the sub where the raised floor ribs were. This allowed us to use 1.5″ bolts so when tightened the threads did not raise above the floors height. Allowing for an easy installation of the final vinyl flooring.

We painted the drilled holes of the metal floor to prevent rust and sealed the holes with silicone during the final install.

Our Experience

Installation Process

Installing the polyiso insulation is really easy. The only challenge with the polyiso is once you’ve installed it you have to be careful when installing the subfloor. I was installing the sub floor by myself which is not advised. Trying to lift a sheet of plywood into the back of a van without any corners stabbing a hole in the foam is a challenge.

Performance

So far we are squeak free and the floor feels really solid. We’ll need to take a few more trips and finish the rest of the build and lower cabinets to see if the added weight becomes a problem with the foam insulation.

In Retrospect

The only things we would’ve done differently is being slightly more precise with the 1″ polyiso around some of the pillars and having a second person during the subfloor installation at all times.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion: Floor Installation appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Pioneer 4200NEX Head Unit – http://amzn.to/2C2nmQt
• Metra Installation Kit – http://amzn.to/2zmyCC7
• ADS-MRR Maestro RR – http://amzn.to/2znJZcV
• HRN-RR-FO2 Maestro Plug and Play ADS-MRR T-Harness – http://amzn.to/2zmoEAu
• USB + Aux 3.5mm Mount Cable – http://amzn.to/2D5pgNg
• USB 3.0 + HDMI Mount Cable – http://amzn.to/2zlJZtU
• Ford OEM Airbag Light, Part# BK2Z-10A936-B- Part Online
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Trim Removal Tools – http://amzn.to/2D4rDzP
• Wire Stripper/Crimper/Cutter – http://amzn.to/2C1LhzE
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $650.51
Installation Time: 5 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Video

**Coming Soon!

Process

Step 1: Program Maestro RR

If you’re going to use a Maestro RR in your installation you will want to program it in advance. We’ve outlined the basic steps and our experience with it on a previous post that you can read here. We won’t go into the details here but be sure to do this a head of time so you don’t hold up the installation in the vehicle.

Step 2: Factory Stereo Removal

This will vary based on which factory stereo came standard in your van. Ours has the basic Sync system with the small display on the top of the dash (build code XX). First we had to pry the top tray loose and hold it out of the way. Then we could remove the radio face panel. This required removing two screws along the top edge of the radio bezel and working the trim removal tool around the outer edges. It will require some force to remove the faceplate but be careful to not damage your dash or vents. You will reuse these vents in the new faceplate of the Metra installation kit.

Once you have removed the faceplate, you can remove 2 screws that are holding the top tray and display screen in place. Then the top tray is only held in with trim clips. On stereos without the small display you can remove the top tray completely in the first step. Removing this tray in either configuration is much easier if you use some trim removal tools.

Step 3: Wiring & Connections

This is the bulk of the installation and easily the most daunting element of the project. I’ve installed many aftermarket stereos in the past, but this one presented several challenges due to the lack of complete wiring diagrams from the manufacturers of the products used. Below are the factory wiring diagrams with additional notes that I had to research or get from calling the support lines of the manufacturers.

Maestro RR Wiring Instructions – Download PDF here.

OBDII Connections from Maestro RR – These connections are made under the dash at the OBDII port. Instructions are not provided by iDatalink with the Maestro RR unit. After a call to support, I found that the Maestro Red wire goes to Factory White/Blue Stripe, Maestro Yellow wire goes to Factory White.

OEM Screen Connecter to Maestro RR –Download diagram here. You’ll need to plug in two small pins from the Maestro harness to the factory stereo harness for the backup camera to work.

Pioneer 4200NEX Wiring Instructions – Download diagram PDF here & Full Owner Manual Here

USB Port Installation

We replaced one of the factory 12v Power Ports in the dash with a USB port that plugs into the Pioneer 4200 NEX. We  also mounted a second USB / HDMI port  under the center console. This port also plugged into the rear of the Pioneer 4200 NEX. Using the trim tools, you can easily remove the center console panel with the 12v plug. Removing the factory plug requires breaking off two small plastic tabs that hold the port in. The replacement ports fit perfectly into the factory hole and  a large plastic nut on the backside of the new port will hold them in place.

The USB / HDMI port that is mounted under the center console requires a new hole to be drilled that matches the diameter of the port. With the center console’s cup holder / change tray removed, you can easily access the backside of this port to screw on the plastic nut to hold it in place. The cables from these ports will have to be fed up either side of the center console to a small opening underneath where the factory radio existed.

Tip: To ensure the new ports do not loosen up or rotate after they have been installed you can run a bead of hot glue around the back side to lock in their position. 

Step 4: Prep for Final Install

After you have everything wired up, you’ll want to put your key in and power up the head unit. Test all the functions, speakers, steering wheel controls, etc. Once you confirm that everything is working and no missing or loose connections exist, then you can begin the preparations for the final install.

The Metra kit includes 2 side brackets that will need to be screwed to the side of your head unit. The brackets have two lower points that insert into existing holes in the dash. These will float the head unit in place. Two screw holes on the top corners of the bracket will sit flush against a piece of the factory plastic. You will need to drill a small pilot hole at these two locations so you can insert two screws to hold the bracket in place. Two additional screws will align with factory screw holes in the rear of the stereo from the Metra bracket. These 4 screws will hold the head unit in place.

At this stage, you’ll need to begin getting the maestro unit, cables, and connectors positioned correctly so you can put the dash back together. This can become difficult due to the number of wires, connectors, etc. present behind the stereo. You’ll want to start tucking the maestro unit and as many cables as you can under the new head unit or to the sides. You can’t leave them all in the rear as the new top tray will eventually fill this space.

The Metra install kit comes with a top tray and a front plate. The top tray comes without the trim clips installed. The clips should be in a  small bag of parts in the kit. Retrieve the clips and attach them to the tray by following the instructions or by comparing them to the factory tray you removed. The vents will need to be removed from the factory stereo faceplate and relocated to the new faceplate. This involves a few small screws and clips that run on both sides of each vent. You can use a small flat head screw driver or trim tool to loosen these clips. You’ll also need to relocate the hazard light button to the new faceplate and use the provided trim plugs to fill in the other faceplate openings.

Ford Transit Passenger Seat Airbag Indicator

One of the openings in the faceplate is for the passenger seat airbag indicator. Depending on your factory stereo configuration or model year, this may not be used. On our 2018, the passenger airbag light was part of the factory stereo control cluster we removed. The result is that the cable is left disconnected in the dash. This triggers the warning light on the dash lights – which is really annoying. We ordered a Ford OEM part# BK2Z-10A936-B. This part was designed to fit in the faceplate location and has the harness connection that matches the factory stereo. Once the indicator is connected the dash light went off. I choose to leave the plastic plug in the faceplate and leave the indicator light in the dash where we can’t see it. It constantly glows orange when the airbag is turned on or off, which is annoying to look at on the dash.

Step 5: Final Install

Congrats! This is the easiest step. Before beginning, you should turn the stereo on. Test all the functions one last time to make sure no connections have came loose. If everything is working, you are truly ready to close up the dash. Start by simply pushing the faceplate in place. Make sure the vent tubes align properly with the ports coming out of the dash. Also check the fit of the head unit screen with the opening in the trim. If the screen doesn’t stick out enough or creates large gaps then you’ll need to adjust how the stereo brackets attach to the stereo sides. Once you have firmly seated the faceplate in the dash, you can move on to the top tray.

You’ll want to ensure you have moved all wires to a position that prevents pinching by the top tray’s final position. The top tray should just click down onto the dash with tabs that fit into the top of the front faceplate. It may require some force to seat the tray into position. You may have some lower dash panels to reinstall or center console trim pieces as well depending on if you added additional USB, auxiliary, or HDMI ports. You can now reinstall them in reverse of how you removed them.

Our Experience

Installation Process

What a annoying mess! I had several rounds of no or conflicting information provided by the manufacturer of the the Maestro RR. The support line staff were polite and were helpful at times but didn’t solve 100% of my issues. The first issue is that iDatalinkt did not provide a compressive enough wiring diagram for the Maestro RR. It does not clearly specify the wiring of the OBDII connection or the two loose wires coming from the upper OEM dash screen connection. I solved both quickly by calling the support line at iDatalink, but why not include this in the provided wiring instructions?

My second issue occurred when the steering wheel controls stopped working altogether. All steps suggested by iDatalink did not solve my problem. They basically said it was the Pioneer unit and that I could call Pioneer but they would blame the Maestro RR as standard protocol. They recommended I send my head unit back and get a replacement one. Really? I refused to throw in the towel and contemplated a few of my own ideas. What worked was retrieving the actual Device Number from inside the Pioneer settings menu and reprograming the Maestro RR with this number. The original instructions for the Maestro was to use the serial number of the unit. After reprogramming the unit we had an operating steering wheel control pad again.

Some of the steps of the process, like cutting the dash, jamming all that wiring into the dash, and running the extra cable to the ports I installed, were fairly straightforward. I burned up about 2 hours sitting on hold with support, troubleshooting my Maestro issues, and reprogramming my Maestro.

Performance

The Pioneer unit, in combination with the Maestro RR, has performed well so far. Almost every function works as expected. The flexibility of the system, addition of vehicle gauges, and the ability to use CarPlay are huge improvements over the factory head unit. I said “almost every function” because I’m still having issues with getting Siri to work properly through the head unit and getting the bluetooth microphone to work properly. My assumption is the factory microphone would be used with the addition of the Maestro RR and initially seemed to the the case. However, in the days following the installation it seems to not be working consistently. It could be a settings issue and I will contact Pioneer support to try to identify the issue.

Update: Originally did not install the pioneer microphone. After installing it and changing the maestro settings it appears to be working correctly now.

Another outstanding issue is the passenger seat airbag light is currently on in the dash. This is a result of the fact that Ford wired the original passenger seat airbag light into the factory stereo unit itself. The connection is currently not hooked up to anything. I’ve found an OEM part to install into the Metra dash kit that will add the passenger airbag light back into the dash. Once I acquire this part and install it, I’ll report back on the outcome.

Update: Ford airbag indicator light solved this problem. Updated install section above to reflect this.

In Retrospect

I would buy the Pioneer 4200NEX again. I’m not 100% sure I’d do a Ford Transit stereo installation myself again if I could find a super good deal on a professional installation. I’ve installed many head units over the years and this might have been the most complicated and frustrating one yet. In the end it was worth it, but took way longer then it really should have.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly. 

The post Van Conversion: Ford Transit Stereo Installation appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

We will predominantly be staying in above 0° F and below 100° F temperatures during most of our van living. There are several areas in which we could have gone further to improve the insulation but for our goals, this is sufficient. Our primary concerns are staying comfortable while sleeping in the van and maintaining a safe temperature for leaving our dogs in the van while we mountain bike.

Material, Tools, Cost & Labor

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• 3M Thinsulate SM600L (50′ x 60″) – http://amzn.to/2EgDlI6
• 80 mil Noico Sound Deadening (54 sqft) – http://amzn.to/2CPveGA
• 3M 90 Spray adhesive (X2) – http://amzn.to/2CxL7wX
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Large Scissors
• Box Cutter / Razor Blade
• Soundproof Roller – http://amzn.to/2CyFiQ0
• Tape Measure
• Black Marker
• Large ruler or T-square
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $801.94
Installation Time: 12.5 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Process

Step 1: Prep

This will vary based on the van you have and the state you receive it in. No matter the state of the van, you’ll want to strip the entire cargo area to the metal. This means removing any plastic panels, previous fittings, and cleaning any existing dirt or grease that may be present. We are building a 2018 Ford Transit so we did’t have to deal with much.

We had to remove all of the factory corrugated plastic panels before we could begin the insulation. This meant removing a ton of plastic trim fasteners. We use a couple of trim removal tools from this set. It made the removal process really easy and left the fasteners unharmed to be reused later.

Step 2: Install Noico Sound Deadening

We choose to install Noico 80mil Sound Deadening mat on the inside of the van. Most of the mat was applied to the large open panels of the outer skin of the van walls and ceiling. We placed the mat in obvious locations that would help absorb vibrations and resonance that could occur in the sheet metal. To save on weight we did not apply it to every square inch of sheet metal and the performance gains of doing so would be minimal. The only locations that received a full covering was the rear wheel wells and locations behind speakers to help improve the audio quality.

It’s advised to install this is warmer temperatures so that it is pliable and the adhesive sticks properly. We choose to start our build in December 2017. This meant using a space heater to warm up the van and to warm the sheets of sound deadening mat before applying it. You can easily cut the mat with a large box cutter and use a scrap piece of plywood as a cutting board.

After peeling the paper backing off of the mat, you can apply the mat by hand and use a rubber wheel roller to remove any air bubbles. You’ll want to start apply it from one side or corner to minimize any air bubbles. The mat needs to be fully adhered to the metal to work properly and the rubber wheel roller helps with that. Be careful when applying in the deep pockets of the walls where the sheet metal can be sharp. I suggest wearing some good fitting mechanics gloves any time you’re working in the van walls to prevent annoying metal cuts.

Step 3: Install Thinsulate Van Insulation

We won’t get into the insulation debate as there are several ways to properly insulate a van (and several incorrect ways). In our build, we chose to use 3M Thinsulate SM600L. It has a decent R value of 5 and can be crammed into the various panels easily to fill every area. We used 1 layer on the roof, in the doors and behind the headliner. Where possible, we applied double layers in the walls.

We tried a few methods for cutting the thinsulate and found that large sharp scissors worked best. Box cutters worked but would sometimes just tear the batting rather than cut it. I’ve seen online people using the fabric wheel cutters with good success as well.

We used 3M 90 spray contact adhesive to mount the insulation. You’ll want to spray the van metal and allow a few seconds for it to setup before mounting the thinsulate. In some tight areas, we would stuff the thinsulate in and then peel back corners to spray the adhesive then return the insulation. This would ensure the insulation would never fall out or down into a panel in the future.

The majority of the van insulation was installed by one person but doing the ceiling would be easier if you had two people. On the first ceiling panels we sprayed the 3M 90 directly on the ceiling but some adhesive started to fall onto the floor. The remaining pieces we sprayed the Thinsulate directly and found no difference in the adherence to the ceiling.

We used a liberal amount of sound deadening mat and full coverage of the Thinsulate inside the rear doors. On the passenger rear door, you’ll need to be aware of the handle and lock mechanisms in the door so the insulation does not interfere with their function. On the drivers door,  we applied the sound deadening to the outer door skin and the Thinsulate to the inner door panel against the plastic door panel. Since rain and moisture can make it’s way into the inner door through the roll down window you’ll want to keep the Thinsulate inside the door panel plastic.

Step 4: Insulating Columns & Ribs

Our plan is to cover the columns and ribs with a foam backed adhesive foil duct insulation. This will create a radiant barrier between the ribs / columns to prevent transferring heat or cold from the van’s skin to the interior, therefore reducing some of the condensation that would form due to the differences in air temperature inside and out of the van. We haven’t installed this yet and will report back when complete. More to come…

We also intend to fill some of the channels or ribs with spray foam if we can’t get the Thinsulate into them. There are probably only marginal gains to be had, as heat (or lack thereof) radiates through the metal brackets that contact the outer skin of the van. Since I only plan to do this phase of the project once, we will go ahead and take the risk of being wrong and wasting our time.

Step 5: Install Reflectix / Vapor Barrier

Our plan is to use Reflectix as the last layer of van insulation and as the vapor barrier for the living area. The Reflectix likely won’t  provide a large bump in the R value as it requires an air gap to be useful, but it may help in the summer to reduce the radiant heat from sun on the van’s body. We haven’t installed this yet and will report back when complete. More to come…

Our Experience

Installation Process

Installing the Noico Sound Deadening is a fairly simple process. Our only real challenge was the temperature. We began our installation the week before Christmas when it was about 30° F or below outside. We hooked up a small space heater in the van so we could warm the Noico mat before applying it as well as keeping the van a reasonable temperature to use the 3M 90 adhesive. This worked well for us until the temperatures began to dip into the teens and single digits. At that point, the adhesive was having a problem spraying correctly to attach the Thinsulate.

Performance

It’s to early to give a good review on the performance of the van insulation, but early signs point to many positives. We’ve noticed reduction in cab noise while driving already and that the temperature in the van doesn’t drop quickly in the cold after turning off the heat. This has been a big help on a recent trip in 15° F weather. We were able to leave our dogs in the van while we rode our mountain bikes.

We’ll report back as the final insulation is completed and more overnight trips are completed. Stay tuned!

In Retrospect

This is an ongoing process and not a completed project for us. I can already see the improvement in heat loss and noise reduction inside the van just from our initial work. Our first camping trip out produced a lot of condensation that started to freeze on the inside of the windows (due to lack of ventilation or heater). Getting the van insulation completed and a proper vapor barrier in place is a high priority on our list now. We’ll report back as we continue the progress on the insulation front.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion: Van Insulation appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

Material, Tools, Cost & Labor

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Reflectix – http://amzn.to/2CdyHKs
• Magnets – http://amzn.to/2CeL494
• Duct Tape – http://amzn.to/2Cdy57C
[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Scissors
• Box Cutter / Blade
• Tape Measure
• Black Marker
• Large ruler or T-square

[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $90
Installation Time: 2 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Process

Step 1: Making Templates

This is the most time-consuming part of the project, as you will want to take your time to be as accurate as possible. For this, you’ll need some large pieces of cardboard. You’ll end up with several unique cardboard templates depending on the van configuration you have. We have a single sliding door window and rear windows. This produced 3.5 cardboard templates (I’ll explain the .5 template in a bit).

Start with a piece of cardboard that is slightly bigger than the window you are working on. Pick an edge of the window to begin marking the cardboard against. I prefer the longest straight edge of the window to save time and cutting. Start marking small sections with a marker and trimming as you go. As you work your way around the window, it will become easier to fit the template to the window. On the driver and passenger seat windows you can roll the window down to mark the majority of the template from the outside.

Though this can be done by one person, larger window templates (windshield) will be easier with a second set of hands. It’s important that you get the cardboard as precise as you can, even if you have to tape a piece of cardboard back on to correct a minor imperfection. Fit  your template in the beveled window sections, about an inch away from the glass, to enhance the effects of the reflectix. If you have the cover pressed directly up against the glass,  some of the radiant insulation properties of the reflectix will be diluted. Once you add the magnetic tabs it will be held in place away from the glass.

Once the fit is good you’ll want to indicate where to place the magnetic tabs to hold the cover.  Place them in locations that are evenly spaced out, and on a flat metal area of the body. Avoid obstructing the weather seal. A particularly bad spot seems to be the upper corners of the front door windows. One tip is to use the seal created when the front doors close to secure your covers.

On the rear windows of the transit, the passenger side window is not as wide as the driver side. You can make the template for driver side and transfer it to the reflectix. Then cut it in half. Place these two halves in the passenger window, and tape them together once they fit perfectly (they will overlap, that is okay). The shape and corners are the same between the two windows. Since this is not a brand new cardboard template, it’s the “.5 template” mentioned above.

Step 2: Cut Out Reflectix

At this point trace your template onto the reflectix using a black sharpie marker. If you made a good template, this is the easiest part of the project. You’ll want to use a good pair of scissors to get clean cuts. Try to cut your templates from the reflectix in the most effective way to minimize the waste.

Step 3: Add Magnetic Tabs

With the reflectix cut out, you are now ready to add the magnetic tabs to hold your covers in place. This consists of cutting a 5″ piece of Duct Tape and placing a magnetic (or two depending on your magnets strength) into the middle of your tape.

Then you evenly apply the tape to one side, folding the tape onto the magnets and then to the opposite side, this will create a tab on the reflectix with the magnets sandwiched in the middle. You’ll want to place the tape so you only have about a 1″ tab with the magnets on the outer edge.

This is an incredibly simple process but is highly effective. Take your time and make sure the tape is being placed inline with itself so when you fold the tape you don’t have any adhesive exposed for that super clean look.  After testing the covers you can come back and add more tabs as necessary if your covers are not staying in place.

Our Experience

Build Process

Making these covers is not complicated but takes a little patience. This has been one of the easiest van projects yet.

Performance

These did a great job creating privacy and blocking some cold from the windows on our fairly frigid first trip in the van. However, with the temperatures dipping down to 18 degrees, they didn’t blow our minds with performance. These were super easy to slap on the windows at camp. Time will tell, but these seem to be sturdy enough that they will hold up for some time if treated with minimal care. The magnets appear small but are very powerful and easily hold the covers in place, blocking almost all the light from the windows.

In Retrospect

Currently, I have no regrets in making these. Once we add on some insulation and nylon material I’ll report back.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly.

The post Van Conversion: Easy Reflectix Window Covers appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.

Material & Tools

[ebs_toggles]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Swivels R Us Passenger Seat Swivel – Buy Here[/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Torx T-40 socket – http://amzn.to/2DUUtUB
• Drill
• Drill Bits
• Jigsaw with fine tooth blade
• 7mm and 13mm sockets
• Pencil or Marker
• Flat Head Screw Driver [/ebs_toggle]
[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $374
Installation Time: 2.5 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
[/ebs_toggles]

Process

Step 1: Order a Swivel

For this installation, we ordered a swivel from Swivels R Us. There are only a couple of manufacturers of swivels for Ford Transit seats. Based on our research at the time, this had the best reviews and least amount of wobble.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery

If your seat has any power connections (such as airbags, power seat controls or heated seat controls), then you’ll need to disconnect the battery as a preventative measure. This is both for safety,  preventing any un-warranted electrical shorts; and to protect the wiring, in case you accidentally cut or pinch a wire. Sometimes if you disconnect a sensor, such as an airbag, while the battery is disconnected, it will trigger an error code that will turn on one of those annoying lights on your dash. I think most of us agree we would rather prevent that.

The batteries are under the driver seat on the Ford Transit. You can access them by moving the driver seat all the way forward. You’ll need to remove 2 screws under the carpeted flap from the back of the top edge of the seat base. Then you can remove the battery door which holds down the bracket and the plastic lid. If you have the dual battery option on your van, be sure to disconnect both positive cables (red) from both batteries. Disconnecting only one will leave the van with power.

Step 3: Remove Seat

Four T-40 Torx bolts hold down the seats in the Ford Transit. There is one in each corner. You will need to move the seat forward and backwards to  access them. If you have power seats, it is best to remove the 4 bolts before fully disconnecting your battery so you can still use the seat controls. No matter which seat you have (power or manual),  raise the seat height to the highest position to allow for clearance underneath and to allow for future adjustment once you begin the actual mounting process.

With the bolts off, you can tilt the seat back (but do not completely remove it) so you can access an electrical connector clipped onto the bottom of the seat.

Then, use a 7mm socket to unscrew the bolt that holds the connector together. Once the bolt is removed, you can pull apart the connector. This allows the seat to be picked up and set aside. Keep in mind the seat belt will still be attached to the wall so you can’t go far with the seat.

Step 4: Prep and Instal Seat Swivel

Based on the instructions included in the swivel kit, you should just set the swivel in place and use the factory bolts to attach the swivel to the seat base. Then, bolt the seat to the top of the swivel using the supplied hardware with the swivel kit. This includes a bolt, two washers, and a nut. The process should be a fairly straightforward for a manual adjust seat, based on what I’ve seen before.

We had to drill two additional holes so the base could be successfully bolted to the swivel on the 10-way power seats. The holes just did not exist at all for our application. You can easily mark the holes from the underside of the seat base on to the swivel. Then create a pilot hole that’s properly centered on your mark with a small drill bit. Then follow-up with a larger and proper diameter bit to allow the factory bolt to fit through with minimal wiggle room.

Step 5: Adjustments & Final Fitting

Depending on your seat, you may have to perform some additional adjustments such as shortening the seat trim, lowering or removing the child seat anchor point, or adding a shim to the swivel or seat. The final adjustments will be unique to each seat variation and swivel manufacturer.

There  is a metal loop that traditionally is the mounting location for a child safety seat on the rear of the seat base. I’ve seen many people cut these off during the installation process but I didn’t want to remove this safety feature for potential future use. I was able to use a pair of channel locks on the metal bar and one on the base plate where the bar was connected, for stability, to bend the bar down enough that the seat swivel could clear it.

The trim on the side with the controls was very long on our 10-way power seats, and caused a conflict with using the swivel, even in the seat’s highest position. Some people will stack washers or create spacers to raise the seat so the trim clears the base. I’m not a fan of this option as it will add about half an inch to an already 1.75″ lift to the factory seat height. I decided to trim the seat trim to the appropriate length to allow the swivel to work. This required cutting approximately 1.5″ off the bottom of the trim, slightly above a molded crease in the trim panel. I taped the trim off with painter’s tape to protect the plastic and used a jigsaw to cut the plastic. I didn’t have a plastic specific blade but I had a fine tooth metal cutting blade. It worked extremely well and left a clean, smooth, cut line on the plastic. I permanently mounted the seat after picking off very few burrs. At this point, the seat would swivel completely with no rubbing or conflict with the seat base.

Our Experience

Installation Process

Overall, the installation process wasn’t horrible but was not a 30 minute bolt-on process as advertised by the manufacturer. Our application on a 10-way power seat required some minimal customization  to the swivel and the seat to make this work. I’ve seen reports of 5+ hours on swivel installs, so our 2.5 hours isn’t bad.

Performance

We’ve only had it installed for a short-period of time, but so far it performs very well. It has a slight wobble, as many swivels do, but nothing that is annoying or a cause of concern. It feels like a very solid and professional built assembly. The locking mechanism and handle are sturdy and do exactly what you’d expect it to do. We’ll report back after a few months of consistent use.

In Retrospect

We’d buy this swivel again if we had too. Even with the requirement to do some customization, we think that this is still a valuable addition to our van.

Affiliate Disclosure: Affiliate links are used on this page and any purchases made with these links help to cover operating costs of this website. They don’t cost you any extra but help us put out good content regularly. 

The post Van Conversion: Install Seat Swivel in Ford Transit appeared first on Outdoor Wanderlust.