The factory stereo in our Ford Transit was a base SYNC system with CD, USB, Bluetooth and AM/FM radio. It will play music but leaves much to be desired in terms of audio quality, capability, backup camera and expandability. We decided to swap it for an aftermarket double din head unit from Pioneer. We’ve had Pioneer units in three previous cars with positive results. This time around, we went with the Pioneer 4200NEX for the full list of audio source options, Apple CarPlay functionality and idatalink integration for diagnostic features. Here’s our experience with a Ford Transit stereo installation.Material, Tools, Cost & Labor

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[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Pioneer 4200NEX Head Unit – http://amzn.to/2C2nmQt
• Metra Installation Kit – http://amzn.to/2zmyCC7
• ADS-MRR Maestro RR – http://amzn.to/2znJZcV
• HRN-RR-FO2 Maestro Plug and Play ADS-MRR T-Harness – http://amzn.to/2zmoEAu
• USB + Aux 3.5mm Mount Cable – http://amzn.to/2D5pgNg
• USB 3.0 + HDMI Mount Cable – http://amzn.to/2zlJZtU
• Ford OEM Airbag Light, Part# BK2Z-10A936-B- Part Online
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[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Trim Removal Tools – http://amzn.to/2D4rDzP
• Wire Stripper/Crimper/Cutter – http://amzn.to/2C1LhzE
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[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $650.51
Installation Time: 5 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
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Video

**Coming Soon!

Process

Step 1: Program Maestro RR

If you’re going to use a Maestro RR in your installation you will want to program it in advance. We’ve outlined the basic steps and our experience with it on a previous post that you can read here. We won’t go into the details here but be sure to do this a head of time so you don’t hold up the installation in the vehicle.

Step 2: Factory Stereo Removal

This will vary based on which factory stereo came standard in your van. Ours has the basic Sync system with the small display on the top of the dash (build code XX). First we had to pry the top tray loose and hold it out of the way. Then we could remove the radio face panel. This required removing two screws along the top edge of the radio bezel and working the trim removal tool around the outer edges. It will require some force to remove the faceplate but be careful to not damage your dash or vents. You will reuse these vents in the new faceplate of the Metra installation kit.

Once you have removed the faceplate, you can remove 2 screws that are holding the top tray and display screen in place. Then the top tray is only held in with trim clips. On stereos without the small display you can remove the top tray completely in the first step. Removing this tray in either configuration is much easier if you use some trim removal tools.

Step 3: Wiring & Connections

This is the bulk of the installation and easily the most daunting element of the project. I’ve installed many aftermarket stereos in the past, but this one presented several challenges due to the lack of complete wiring diagrams from the manufacturers of the products used. Below are the factory wiring diagrams with additional notes that I had to research or get from calling the support lines of the manufacturers.

Maestro RR Wiring Instructions – Download PDF here.

OBDII Connections from Maestro RR – These connections are made under the dash at the OBDII port. Instructions are not provided by iDatalink with the Maestro RR unit. After a call to support, I found that the Maestro Red wire goes to Factory White/Blue Stripe, Maestro Yellow wire goes to Factory White.

OEM Screen Connecter to Maestro RR –Download diagram here. You’ll need to plug in two small pins from the Maestro harness to the factory stereo harness for the backup camera to work.

Pioneer 4200NEX Wiring Instructions – Download diagram PDF here & Full Owner Manual Here

USB Port Installation

We replaced one of the factory 12v Power Ports in the dash with a USB port that plugs into the Pioneer 4200 NEX. We  also mounted a second USB / HDMI port  under the center console. This port also plugged into the rear of the Pioneer 4200 NEX. Using the trim tools, you can easily remove the center console panel with the 12v plug. Removing the factory plug requires breaking off two small plastic tabs that hold the port in. The replacement ports fit perfectly into the factory hole and  a large plastic nut on the backside of the new port will hold them in place.

The USB / HDMI port that is mounted under the center console requires a new hole to be drilled that matches the diameter of the port. With the center console’s cup holder / change tray removed, you can easily access the backside of this port to screw on the plastic nut to hold it in place. The cables from these ports will have to be fed up either side of the center console to a small opening underneath where the factory radio existed.

Tip: To ensure the new ports do not loosen up or rotate after they have been installed you can run a bead of hot glue around the back side to lock in their position. 

Step 4: Prep for Final Install

After you have everything wired up, you’ll want to put your key in and power up the head unit. Test all the functions, speakers, steering wheel controls, etc. Once you confirm that everything is working and no missing or loose connections exist, then you can begin the preparations for the final install.

The Metra kit includes 2 side brackets that will need to be screwed to the side of your head unit. The brackets have two lower points that insert into existing holes in the dash. These will float the head unit in place. Two screw holes on the top corners of the bracket will sit flush against a piece of the factory plastic. You will need to drill a small pilot hole at these two locations so you can insert two screws to hold the bracket in place. Two additional screws will align with factory screw holes in the rear of the stereo from the Metra bracket. These 4 screws will hold the head unit in place.

At this stage, you’ll need to begin getting the maestro unit, cables, and connectors positioned correctly so you can put the dash back together. This can become difficult due to the number of wires, connectors, etc. present behind the stereo. You’ll want to start tucking the maestro unit and as many cables as you can under the new head unit or to the sides. You can’t leave them all in the rear as the new top tray will eventually fill this space.

The Metra install kit comes with a top tray and a front plate. The top tray comes without the trim clips installed. The clips should be in a  small bag of parts in the kit. Retrieve the clips and attach them to the tray by following the instructions or by comparing them to the factory tray you removed. The vents will need to be removed from the factory stereo faceplate and relocated to the new faceplate. This involves a few small screws and clips that run on both sides of each vent. You can use a small flat head screw driver or trim tool to loosen these clips. You’ll also need to relocate the hazard light button to the new faceplate and use the provided trim plugs to fill in the other faceplate openings.

Ford Transit Passenger Seat Airbag Indicator

One of the openings in the faceplate is for the passenger seat airbag indicator. Depending on your factory stereo configuration or model year, this may not be used. On our 2018, the passenger airbag light was part of the factory stereo control cluster we removed. The result is that the cable is left disconnected in the dash. This triggers the warning light on the dash lights – which is really annoying. We ordered a Ford OEM part# BK2Z-10A936-B. This part was designed to fit in the faceplate location and has the harness connection that matches the factory stereo. Once the indicator is connected the dash light went off. I choose to leave the plastic plug in the faceplate and leave the indicator light in the dash where we can’t see it. It constantly glows orange when the airbag is turned on or off, which is annoying to look at on the dash.

Step 5: Final Install

Congrats! This is the easiest step. Before beginning, you should turn the stereo on. Test all the functions one last time to make sure no connections have came loose. If everything is working, you are truly ready to close up the dash. Start by simply pushing the faceplate in place. Make sure the vent tubes align properly with the ports coming out of the dash. Also check the fit of the head unit screen with the opening in the trim. If the screen doesn’t stick out enough or creates large gaps then you’ll need to adjust how the stereo brackets attach to the stereo sides. Once you have firmly seated the faceplate in the dash, you can move on to the top tray.

You’ll want to ensure you have moved all wires to a position that prevents pinching by the top tray’s final position. The top tray should just click down onto the dash with tabs that fit into the top of the front faceplate. It may require some force to seat the tray into position. You may have some lower dash panels to reinstall or center console trim pieces as well depending on if you added additional USB, auxiliary, or HDMI ports. You can now reinstall them in reverse of how you removed them.

Our Experience

Installation Process

What a annoying mess! I had several rounds of no or conflicting information provided by the manufacturer of the the Maestro RR. The support line staff were polite and were helpful at times but didn’t solve 100% of my issues. The first issue is that iDatalinkt did not provide a compressive enough wiring diagram for the Maestro RR. It does not clearly specify the wiring of the OBDII connection or the two loose wires coming from the upper OEM dash screen connection. I solved both quickly by calling the support line at iDatalink, but why not include this in the provided wiring instructions?

My second issue occurred when the steering wheel controls stopped working altogether. All steps suggested by iDatalink did not solve my problem. They basically said it was the Pioneer unit and that I could call Pioneer but they would blame the Maestro RR as standard protocol. They recommended I send my head unit back and get a replacement one. Really? I refused to throw in the towel and contemplated a few of my own ideas. What worked was retrieving the actual Device Number from inside the Pioneer settings menu and reprograming the Maestro RR with this number. The original instructions for the Maestro was to use the serial number of the unit. After reprogramming the unit we had an operating steering wheel control pad again.

Some of the steps of the process, like cutting the dash, jamming all that wiring into the dash, and running the extra cable to the ports I installed, were fairly straightforward. I burned up about 2 hours sitting on hold with support, troubleshooting my Maestro issues, and reprogramming my Maestro.

Performance

The Pioneer unit, in combination with the Maestro RR, has performed well so far. Almost every function works as expected. The flexibility of the system, addition of vehicle gauges, and the ability to use CarPlay are huge improvements over the factory head unit. I said “almost every function” because I’m still having issues with getting Siri to work properly through the head unit and getting the bluetooth microphone to work properly. My assumption is the factory microphone would be used with the addition of the Maestro RR and initially seemed to the the case. However, in the days following the installation it seems to not be working consistently. It could be a settings issue and I will contact Pioneer support to try to identify the issue.

Update: Originally did not install the pioneer microphone. After installing it and changing the maestro settings it appears to be working correctly now.

Another outstanding issue is the passenger seat airbag light is currently on in the dash. This is a result of the fact that Ford wired the original passenger seat airbag light into the factory stereo unit itself. The connection is currently not hooked up to anything. I’ve found an OEM part to install into the Metra dash kit that will add the passenger airbag light back into the dash. Once I acquire this part and install it, I’ll report back on the outcome.

Update: Ford airbag indicator light solved this problem. Updated install section above to reflect this.

In Retrospect

I would buy the Pioneer 4200NEX again. I’m not 100% sure I’d do a Ford Transit stereo installation myself again if I could find a super good deal on a professional installation. I’ve installed many head units over the years and this might have been the most complicated and frustrating one yet. In the end it was worth it, but took way longer then it really should have.

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